ADVERTISEMENT US fashion designer Willy Chavarria has issued a public apology after his collaboration with Adidas Originals was accused of cultural appropriation for using a traditional Mexican design without involving the Indigenous community behind it.
The Oaxaca Slip-On, inspired by huaraches – handmade leather sandals with deep cultural roots in Indigenous Mexican craftsmanship – was criticised by officials in Mexico, including President Claudia Sheinbaum.
The controversy centres around the fact that the shoe – which was reportedly manufactured in China – was made without consultation with or credit to the communities whose cultural heritage inspired the design.
Chavarria, a prominent designer and former senior vice president of design at Calvin Klein, said in a statement sent to the BBC: “I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.”
He continued: “The intention was always to honour the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities – a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me. The name Oaxaca is not just a word – its living culture, its people, and its history.”
“This falls short of the respect and collaborative approach that Oaxaca, the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, and its people deserve,” he added, referencing the village where the design has its roots. “I know love is not just given – it is earned through action.”
Adidas has also expressed regret, saying it “recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities and the meaning of their artisanal heritage.”
“The ‘Oaxaca Slip-On’ was inspired by a design from Oaxaca, rooted in the tradition of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag. We offer a public apology and reaffirm our commitment to collaborate with Yalálag in a respectful dialogue that honors their cultural legacy,” the company wrote.
Mexico’s deputy culture minister, Marina Núñez, said Adidas had contacted local officials to discuss “restitution to the people who were plagiarised.”
In response to the backlash, both Adidas and Chavarria removed promotional material for the Oaxaca Slip-On from their social media platforms.
The Associated Press reported that Adidas responded to Mexican authorities in a letter on Friday, acknowledging the criticism and requesting discussions to “repair the damage” to the affected communities.
In recent years, Mexico has repeatedly pushed back against international fashion brands, including Zara and Shein, for designs it deemed too close to traditional patterns.
The country passed a federal law in 2022 to protect Indigenous and Afro-Mexican peoples’ intellectual and cultural property. Unauthorised use of Indigenous cultural expressions is now punished with fines and prison sentences.
