ADVERTISEMENTTwo households, both alike in dignity, in fair Spain, where we lay our scene…
A bastardised Shakespeare opening that suits the ongoing ‘rivalry’ between two family-owned taverns, who both claim to be the world’s oldest establishments.
There’s Madrid’s Sobrino de Botín, which holds the coveted Guinness World Record as the world’s oldest restaurant.
Founded in 1725 and located a stone’s throw from the famed Plaza Mayor, it is famed for its wood-fire oven and has attracted patrons like Truman Capote, F. Scott Fitzgerald and was immortalised by Ernest Hemingway in his book “The Sun Also Rises” – in which the author described Botín as “one of the best restaurants in the world.”
It was awarded the Guinness accolade in 1987 and celebrated its 300 years of continuous service earlier this year.
Then there’s Casa Pedro, located on the outskirts of Madrid. The rustic tavern has boldly claimed that they have a shot at the title.
The establishment has hosted Spanish King Juan Carlos I and current Spanish monarch King Felipe VI, and the owners assert their establishment endured the War of Spanish Succession at the start of the 18th century – therefore making Casa Pedro older than Botín.
“It’s really frustrating when you say, ‘Yes, we’ve been around since 1702,’ but… you can’t prove it,” says manager and eighth-generation proprietor Irene Guiñales. “If you look at the restaurant’s logo, it says ‘Casa Pedro, since 1702,’ so we said, ‘Damn it, let’s try to prove it.’”
Guiñales’ family has hired a historian and has so far turned up documents dating the restaurant’s operations to at least 1750. She continues to hunt for records proving that Casa Pedro dates back to 1702.
The question remains: How can either restaurant claim the title?
Guinness provides its specific guidelines only to applicants, according to spokesperson Kylie Galloway, who notes that it entails “substantial evidence and documentation of the restaurant’s operation over the years.”
Antonio González, a third-generation proprietor of Botín, states that Guinness required Botín show that it has continuously operated in the same location with the same name. The only time the restaurant closed was during the pandemic – much like Casa Pedro.
That criteria would mean that restaurants that are even older, like Paris’ Le Procope, which says it was founded in 1686, aren’t eligible for the Guinness designation.
To make matters dicier, an Italian trattoria located in Rome’s historic center, may pip both Sobrino de Botín and Casa Pedro to the post and steal the cake.
Nestled on Vicolo della Campana, La Campana claims “a taste of authentic Roman cuisine with a side of history” and more than 500 years of operation, citing documents on its menu and a self-published history. Its owners have said they have compiled the requisite paperwork and plan to submit it to Guinness.
The battle of tasty households continues… Let’s hope that chef blood won’t make chef hands unclean.
